RIOJA RULES
As the Rioja region introduces new, hyper-local labeling guidance, Nargess Banks quizzes star winemaker Telmo Rodríguez of Bodega Lanzaga on the potential impact of the new terminology
Rioja has new rules. For 2024, the wine region’s ruling body, the Consejo Regulador (DOCa), has implemented several significant changes aimed at encouraging producers to highlight the unique characteristics of their wines, while reflecting the specific terroirs of their vineyards.
Changes include labeling terminology. “Vino de Pueblo” replaces the term “Vino de Municipio” with the view of allowing producers to explicitly highlight the specific village, or pueblo, where the wines are made within the 144 official municipalities in the Rioja wine country. What’s more, Vino de Pueblo wines can now contain up to 15 percent of grapes or wine from a neighboring village or municipality to allow the winemaker more flexibility.
Meanwhile, the new labeling term “Viñedo en,” which roughly translates to “vineyard in,” indicates that the wine is made entirely from grapes grown in a a specific vineyard in a specific village. This allows producers to highlight the precise origin of their grapes, emphasizing the terroir of that particular location.
With the new rules of Rioja, the DOCa has also implemented enhanced labeling requirements to emphasize regional specificity. This means that Rioja wines must now be labeled according to one of the three official zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. The goal of these rules is to maintain and highlight the distinct characteristics and qualities associated with each of these specific wine-producing regions within Rioja.
We spoke with Telmo Rodríguez, founder of Bodega Lanzaga, to gain an insight to his views on the new Rioja rules and, in particular, the inclusion of the pueblo on the bottle label.
Telmo Rodríguez at Bodega Lanzaga, and with his business partner, the winemaker Pablo Eguzkiza, at the prestigious winery in Spain’s Rioja region
What are your overall impressions of the DOCa changes to labeling, categorization and classifications, and will they have a positive impact on the producers domestically and on the global market?
I believe it is heading in the right direction. Providing more information and moving away from a system that conceals the origin of wine, I think is a good thing.
What are your views on the new labeling rules, specifically the inclusion of “Vino de Pueblo” on the bottle?
The inclusion of “Vino de Pueblo” is a welcome development. Historically, Spanish wines were identified solely by the village name, as we lacked a classification system for territory or land quality. In my view, the village name is deeply embedded in our culture, and its resurgence is excellent news.
Equally, do you see including the term “Viñedo en” as a positive message for Rioja producers?
For me, “Viñedo en” indicated that the wine came from a specific vineyard in a particular village. I believe it is crucial to emphasize this movement back to the land.
Do you feel the enhanced labeling for zones (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Oriental) will help with the focus on regional specificity for producers?
The basic classification of three zones was ineffective, as it oversimplified the territories. If you ask around, very few people truly understand what these zones represent. Therefore, educating consumers about the differences in production zones should be interesting. However, it’s important to remember that in Rioja, blending is unrestricted.
Photography ©Helen Cathcart, Rob Lawson
AN EXCEPTIONAL YEAR
Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza, winemakers and owners of Botega Lanzaga, discuss the latest vintages from the Rioja estate
The wines that we are releasing this year are from the 2021 vintage. It was an exceptional year in terms of both quantity and quality. Some vineyards like Falcoeira and Arrebatacapas were generous for once, and have rewarded us with a great harvest, perhaps in celebration of these 30 years of great adventure and happiness.
La Estrada 2021
With its small production, La Estrada is a special plot which has long fascinated us for its depth and balance. The tiny 0.64 hectares vineyard is at 610 meters a.s.l., located on the highest and most western part of the village of Lanciego, facing northeast and situated on a slope of pure chalk clay. Planted in the 1940s and managed with traditional bush pruning, it used to be mostly field blended with Tempranillo and a little Graciano.
The 2021 vintage began with a dry winter and spring, followed by a mild summer. The year was marked by a hailstorm on June 3, which occurred in the middle of flowering and decimated vines in the southern to northeastern areas of the village of Lanciego.
La Estrada was not affected in the same way, as it is located in the western part of the village. In addition, the 150 liters of rain that fell during the first fortnight of June made the fieldwork considerably more complicated and led to the smallest harvest on record. Harvesting started on October 10 with excellent grape health and bunches that were small and well aerated.
La Estrada 2021 is a wine with approachable tannins, great color, acidity and depth. They say that hailstorms are very haphazard, and it is true – we cannot enjoy the 2021 vintage of El Velado, as it was affected by the storm on June 3.
1,941 bottles produced
Las Beatas 2021
Las Beatas is a wonderful site, capable of providing water to the vines regularly, as only grand crus do. The 1.9 hectare vineyard sits in the northwesternmost area of Rioja Alavesa, where the continental Miocene conglomerates are mixed with sandstone and marl outcrops from the late Tertiary. Ten levels of terraces face east, south and northwest and where old vines combine with young vines and where eight, maybe nine local varieties are cultivated.
The 2021 vintage benefited from ideal weather conditions during the ripening period and harvest. We experienced a brief but cold winter followed by a very dry summer with high temperatures, which initially delayed the start of veraison. However, unexpected storms and accompanying winds in early September accelerated the ripening process, resulting in an early vintage. We started harvesting on September 30 with a good quantity of healthy grapes. Las Beatas has been aged exclusively in a 1,200-liter foudre in our very old and cold cellar.
1,521 bottles produced
Tabuérniga 2021
Tabuérniga is an extraordinary place in the historical village of Labastida, where viticulture has been maintained for over 1,300 years, and where medieval wine presses carved in rocks amongst the vineyards watch over the heritage of former times. The plot lies in a small, vertical, and secluded valley, where shorter vegetative cycle varieties produce a wine of distinct character – sober and austere, yet full of depth and elegance. Situated at an altitude of 540 to 630 meters, these narrow, historic terraces are cultivated organically with deep respect for tradition, yielding a magnificent wine.
In 2021, we experienced a cold winter followed by a dry summer with high temperatures. The ripening and harvest period were particularly favorable due to ideal weather conditions. The dry summer delayed veraison, but early September rains helped the cycle catch up, ultimately leading to an early ripening. Windy days maintained the healthy condition of the grapes, and the significant temperature contrast between day and night ensured perfect ripening. We began harvesting on October 6 and completed it two days later.
3,812 bottles produced
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