Wine Trails: Marlborough

From the sunken valleys of the Queen Charlotte Sound to the tinder dry hills of the Awatere Valley, Marlborough is a multifaceted gem. Each diverse landscape is as bountiful as it is beautiful, and the best explorations of Marlborough consider what you’ll eat, where you’ll eat it, and the wines you’ll match along the way.

Start with the Marlborough Sounds, where verdant hills surround myriad bays, and salmon, mussel and oyster farms provide a perfect match for the Sauvignon Blanc that made this region famous. It’s a match made even sweeter at a resort poised over pristine waters, surrounded by native bush, or in a bustling Picton café overlooking the harbor.

From there, travel over the braided Wairau River and you will meet a landscape transformed by wine. Before 1973, this was bony sheep country and occasional orchards, until a magical meeting of vines, climate, topography and soil, along with the ingenuity of audacious wine pioneers, changed its fortunes forever. These days grapes stretch from heavier soils of the Southern Valleys, past the alluvial riverbed of the Wairau Plains, and down to the fertile lands of the Lower Wairau.

You’ll still find roadside stalls of juicy garnet-colored cherries on the plains in summer, but sheep are most likely found grazing beneath winter vines, picturesque as they trim grass and fertilize soil. There’s plenty of wonderful wine and food to be found throughout, with more than 30 cellar doors, along with vineyard restaurants showcasing seasonal local fare.

Drive from the Wairau to the Awatere Valley, where the first vines were planted by the Vavasour family in the late 1980s, and you will find another agricultural region transformed by wine, with swathes of vines climbing from the eastern coastline to the white-gold hills of dryland farms. Cooling winds from the Pacific Ocean leave their signature on Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc, which typically carries a mineral backbone, crisp acidity, and aromas including tomato leaf and tropical fruits.

Then head south to emerge at the view-drenched Pacific Highway, via Kēkerengū, where a tiny fragment of Marlborough’s vineyard lies in its own extraordinary microclimate. Navigate the thin slip of road between the Kaikōura Range and Pacific Ocean, stopping to look for seals lounging on ragged rocks, and the whales and dolphins drawn to the abundant larder of a submarine canyon just offshore.

They are not the only ones happy to dine on this southern edge of Marlborough, with kaikōura (Māori for ‘eat crayfish’) true to its name – and it’s kōura best accompanied, of course, by a glass of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

Marlborough is home to more than 30 cellar doors and a handful of unique subregions. Try the “Golden Mile” made famous by the likes of Cloudy Bay, then delve into the Lower Wairau Valley, and the unique characteristics of the Southern Valleys and Awatere Valley subregions.

Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen

When Neal and Judy Ibbotson planted their first vines in 1978, in the earliest days of Marlborough’s wine industry, they never dreamed they would one day have vineyards across Marlborough. The Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen is the perfect way to explore the diversity of varieties and subregions, including the Dillons Point Sauvignon Blancs they’re so well-known for, alongside a menu driven by seasonal and local produce.

Greywacke

Kevin Judd, the founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay, launched Greywacke with his wife Kimberley in 2009 with a focus on mature vineyards, predominantly in the Southern Valleys and central Wairau Plains, and low-intervention winemaking, incorporating wild yeast fermentation. It’s a small team, so tastings are by appointment only.

Spy Valley

Named for the Waihopai Valley spy base, this cellar door plays homage to espionage, environment and excellent wine. The family-owned wine company is certified by Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand, a groundbreaking programme that covers 96 percent of New Zealand’s vineyard area.

Tūpari

These wines are grown in the Upper Awatere Valley, 150 to 200 meters above sea level, atop cliffs (tūpari in Māori) at the edge of the Awatere River. The vines and wines are a partnership between the Turnbull family and winemaker Glenn Thomas, and can be tasted at an historic railway station in Seddon, or on a tour of the vineyards and adjoining deer farm.

Framingham

You will find a juxtaposition of preened roses and punk lyrics at this beautiful cellar door near Renwick, where Riesling rules the roost, the underground cellar nurtures music and art, and the Harvest Concert is an annual pilgrimage for locals and visiting cellar hands. Framingham is governed by its “rules,” starting with Rule No.1: Do what you love.

From a five-star luxury resort hidden in a secluded bay, to a luxury urban retreat, rustic accommodation and a former Victorian convent transformed into a boutique hotel, Marlborough has plenty of options for the wine tourist to unwind.

Bay of Many Coves

This luxury five-star resort is set in the far reaches of the Queen Charlotte Sound, beneath native bush and above a secluded bay. Catch a water taxi out to this sublime spot, or one of the other lodges throughout the sound.

14th Lane

In the heart of Blenheim, a few minutes’ walk from Frank’s Oyster Bay, 14th Lane is a luxury urban retreat in what was once a wood and coal merchants. Each room is unique and fresh and the communal lounge a great place to curl up with a great wine and a good book.

The French Barn

Dog Point Vineyard’s Omaka Valley property is a stunning blend of organic vines, olive trees and native plantings, while the French Barn at its heart offers stylishly rustic accommodation. Walking tracks explore the vineyard and native plantings, complete with a wine tasting at Dog Point.

The Marlborough

This boutique hotel was built in 1901 for the Sisters of Mercy. These days the Victorian convent offers plenty of luxury, set amongst extensive and extraordinary gardens in Rapaura, the heart of Marlborough wine country.

Hans Herzog Vineyard Cottage

The estate is a labor of love for Hans and Therese Herzog, who brought winemaking traditions from Switzerland when they founded their Rapaura property in 1994, with a focus far beyond Sauvignon Blanc. A stay in the vineyard cottage, nestled within their organic vineyard, includes a continental breakfast served by the vigneron hosts.

With its abundance of local produce, freshly shucked oysters, just-caught mussels, and delicious local kōura, there is simply no shortage of restaurants and eateries in Marlborough offering seasonal menus to enjoy alongside the region’s world-class wines and breathtaking scenery.

Jack’s Raw Bar

The Cloudy Bay winery is a must-visit for wine travelers in Marlborough. Try the Pelorus sparkling wine, or the Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc, and soak up a view of the Richmond Range, made famous by the iconic label. Jack’s Raw Bar is its summer restaurant, serving a local and seasonal menu, including freshly shucked oysters and Cloudy Bay clams.

Sisu Eatery and Bar

With shared plates, great wine, craft beer, a curated gin selection, and a stunning outlook over the Queen Charlotte Sound, Sisu brings a Nordic twist to local produce. The wine list of this Picton waterfront restaurant is focused on smaller New Zealand producers.

Le Café

This Picton institution offers great food, wine and beer within a stone’s throw of the harbor. Grab a bowl of freshly steamed mussels – farmed in the sounds beyond – order a glass of Marlborough wine, take in the view and, if your timing is right, listen to live music from a touring band.

ASTROLABE Town Winery

Astrolabe opened its urban winery in Blenheim on the cusp of the 2024 vintage. The family-owned wine company makes its small batch wines here, while visitors eat and drink surrounded by oak barrels. Try a wine flight with an array of tapas from the charcuterie, cheese and bruschetta menus.

Frank’s Oyster Bar and Eatery

Chef Sam Webb honed his talents working around the world before returning to his roots and setting up the fabulous Frank’s in Blenheim. Find locally sourced produce (including freshly shucked oysters) perfectly curated in a mouthwatering selection of shared plates.

There are plenty of ways to whet your appetite for Marlborough’s wine and food, from a walk or swim at the crystal-clear Pelorus River and a tour of a globally acclaimed aviation museum, to a dolphin-spotting cruise in the Marlborough Sounds.

Queen Charlotte Track

Walk or bike this three-day, 45-mile, view-drenched trail through the Marlborough Sounds, starting with a cruise through the Queen Charlotte Sound to the start point at historic Meretoto (Ship Cove). Stay at resorts along the trail, fueling up on local wine and food at restaurants at the edge of the water.

Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre

This remarkable collection of World War I and World War II aircraft is rendered even more effective thanks to the diorama that tells the stories of the wars. The “Knights of the Sky” exhibition displays the personal collection of film director Sir Peter Jackson, and includes mannequins created by Wētā Workshop, the talent behind the creatures, prosthetics, weapons and armor in The Lord of the Rings trilogy.

Pelorus Bridge

Marlborough’s links to Peter Jackson carry on to the Pelorus Bridge, the setting of the river barrel scene in The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug. This river is worth a visit, with clear waters in a stunning gorge. Those not keen to take a plunge can stroll one of the short or long bush walks offering views of the river and Richmond Range.

Dolphin watching and bird spotting

Head out from Picton on a dolphin-watching cruise in the Queen Charlotte Sound, including a walk on the Motuara Island Bird Sanctuary, with its abundance of native birds.

Havelock

This is the gateway to the Pelorus Sound, so jump on a Greenshell Mussel tour, cruising the sound, eating mussels and sampling Sauvignon Blanc, or simply pull up a stool at Mills Bay Mussels in the Havelock Marina, and slurp down mussels between sips of Sauvignon.