HOUSTON CALLING
Jessica Dupuy visits Bludorn to see why the Texan restaurant’s winning blend of approachable Southern hospitality and cleverly curated wine list could only exist in Houston
Though much of Texas may be forever branded with the Wild West stereotype of cowboys, cactus and oil tycoons, Houston’s status as a culinary powerhouse could be the state’s best-kept secret. Brimming with culinary innovation blending traditional Texan fare with international cuisines, the city’s food scene is a melting pot of global flavors and cutting-edge dining experiences, making it a contender for one of America’s top gourmet destinations.
Known for its funky galleries, eclectic shops and lively dining scene, Montrose is one of Houston’s hottest areas. Seizing on the neighborhood’s vibrant energy, chef Aaron Bludorn, formerly of acclaimed establishments Cyrus in Napa Valley and Café Boulud in New York, was eager to play a role in the Space City’s bustling dining scene (it also brought him an opportunity to raise a family in his wife’s hometown).
Bludorn opened its doors in 2020 in the heat of the pandemic, and managed to find its niche as both a fine dining destination and a neighborhood haunt where locals can enjoy a glass of wine with dinner at the bar. This dual personality mirrors Houston’s ethos as a melting pot of global flavors and talent.
In Bludorn’s warmly lit, intimate bar, amber lighting dances across the shelves of top-shelf spirits while the talented bar staff serves creative concoctions such as This Must Be The Place, starring bell pepper infused tequila, ancho reyes, lime, and tajin salt rim. Meanwhile, in the buzzing dining room, Gulf Coast-inspired seasonal fare includes grouper with sauce creole and house classics such as jollof-style crab rice and lobster-chicken pot pie, enhanced by an extensive selection of wines.
Bludorn’s design channels the artsy vibe of Houston’s Montrose, while the menu offers New American, French-inspired fare, complemented by a diverse list of global wines
Bludorn wine director Molly Austad says she offers a “little smattering of everything” to reflect Houston’s diversity
VARIETY SHOW
“You have to pay attention to what your guests want most,” says wine director Molly Austad, who manages Bludorn’s wine programs – a list peppered with an assortment of everything from older vintages of Riesling to light and smoky Etna Rosso throughout the menu.
Austad has been with the restaurant since the beginning, shadowing celebrated Master Sommelier Jack Mason as he helped conceptualize Bludorn’s wine identity pre-launch for the first few months. Austad admits she felt hesitant to run her first solo beverage program but took “a leap of faith,” she tells me after Mason pledged support. Once Bludorn opened to rave reviews, she quickly found her footing.
Austad offers a “little smattering of everything,” as she puts it, to reflect Houston’s diversity. Old World mainstays like Champagne and Burgundy mingle with discoveries from Germany, Argentina and beyond. Her curated approach ensures quality and variety without being overwhelming. Though Bludorn’s list is not the city’s largest, Austad believes its thoughtful composition makes it stand out.
“I just have so much fun with it – tasting the wines, learning about them, and sharing them with our guests. It’s very hands-on,” she says. Her current favorite, she adds, is the food-friendly Tuscan red Argiano Rosso di Montalcino, which she admires for its earthy, mineral-edged cherry fruit, saying: “I can put it with so many things on the menu.”
VINTAGE FINDS
This vision springs more clearly to life when I move from the bar to a cozy booth in the dining room where I can take in the dinner menu more fully. Smartly dressed business travelers mingle with low-key Montrose residents meeting friends, brought together by Bludorn’s laid back ambiance and Austad’s liquid handiwork. Glancing at my neighbors sipping a Côtes-du-Rhône from J.L. Chave, South African Chenin Blanc, and a rare old vintage of Riesling, I feel eager to discover my own new favorite.
Perusing the menu spotlighting seasonal Gulf bounty and prime local ranch wares, I ponder both comforting and adventuresome pairings, but defer to Austad to select something for me. Her suggestion of the 2020 Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Schutt hits just the right note alongside the potato gnocchi with broccoli rabe, herb ricotta, butternut squash and hazelnut.
Dining among a smattering of Houston’s movers and shakers, you can sense chef Bludorn’s vision realized here in this lively hub – a portal offering a liquid escape for the globetrotting palates of Houston’s tastemakers and local neighborhood regulars alike.
Satisfy your thirst for unique wine and cuisine experiences at these similar establishments in Houston: Rosie Cannonball and State of Grace.
Photography ©Julie Soefer
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