From its vineyards on the Langhe hills, a world-heritage site celebrated for its winegrowing traditions, the Ratti family has been producing the finest of Barolos for over 50 years, and shows no signs of slowing down. We sit down with Pietro Ratti, winemaker and owner of the Piedmont winery, to discuss the Ratti Barolo 2020 vintage, and find out how his team of experts aims to express the personality of each plot, vintage by vintage.

What can you tell us about the Ratti Barolo 2020 vintage, and what sets these wines apart from previous vintages?

Since our vintage 2019, we are facing very interesting “one year yes, and one year no” styles. This means vintages 2019, 2021 and 2023 are cooler and more “classic” in style, they are a bit more closed and reserved, and will express better after a few more years of bottle aging. At the opposite end, vintages 2020 and 2022, which were born in warmer years, are more open, direct, opulent and easier to understand as released.

Some vintages are winemaker driven, while others are more directed by Mother Nature. Where do you see your Barolo 2020 vintage sitting?

In the old days, you could say there was more winemaking influence on the vintages, whereas now we have a very gentle touch in the cellar. Today our efforts are made in the vineyards in order to maintain and express the personality of each plot vintage by vintage. This is essential due to climate change and global warming.

What was the climate in Italy’s Piedmont region in 2020?

The winter months and beginning of the spring were mild with not much rain or snow. Then late spring was very wet until June, providing a good amount of water for the following months. Our grapes were picked in the first two weeks of October.

What decisions were made with viticulture to ensure the grapes were in their prime for the Barolo wines?

I believe that the good amount of water that arrived in the springtime compensated for the very warm summer, giving a good balance between acidity and sugar. Also important was how we benefited from a very good shift of temperatures between day and night in the last part of the season.

Equally, what work was carried out in the cellar that helped elevate the wines?

Our cellar work is quite “methodical,” using lower fermentation temperatures, extended skin contact, reduction of air contact and avoiding any fining. My philosophy is to work in the vineyards as best as possible in order to have the lightest touch in the winery. Working with a top grape like Nebbiolo, our responsibility is to express the site of origin and the variable vintage at its best.

Which of the four Barolo wines of 2020 including the flagship ‘Marcenasco,’ ‘Rocche dell’Annunziata’ and ‘Serradenari’ do you feel best captures the expression of Ratti?

Each of our Barolos has its own personality. Saying that, probably the Barolo we are working the hardest with to perfect the Ratti/La Morra style is the ‘Marcenasco.’ To achieve this, we are using more grapes from the higher elevation vineyards of La Morra, which are 1,480 feet compared to traditional 1,000 feet. Quantity in 2020 is down 20 percent because of a further quality selection of the grapes. We are blending the grapes which are not suitable for Marcenasco in our Langhe Nebbiolo Ochetti, which is also improving from it.

How should we pair the Barolo wines with food this winter?

Any food with protein is suitable for a good Nebbiolo. That doesn’t mean just pairing the wines with meat, but also cheese and pasta with mushrooms and truffle. For me of course the local Piedmont white truffle of Alba, found here between October and January, shaved on a nice tajarin pasta [the Piedmontese version of tagliatelle] is always the top of the top.

Learn more about Ratti and the wines.