24 HOURS IN TRIESTE
Felix Jermann, of the historic Friuli Venezia Giulia winery, grew up in the region and began exploring Trieste day and night in his teens. He shares his little black book.
What’s the first thing you do when you arrive in Trieste?
Have a swim in the sea in the Barcola area, it has the best waters of the region in my opinion.
Do you have a favorite spot for lunch?
Dama Bianca, an old-school, classic fish restaurant 15 minutes from the city in Duino, where you can enjoy the seaside views. Here it seems time has stopped. I may have a cocktail too. There is a lovely cocktail bar right next to it, where the restaurant owner Dario mixes up a great drink. This is also a good spot for a swim.
For someone new to the city, which area would you recommend to walk around for a unique Trieste experience?
The city center is definitely the prettiest, with its main square going right up to the sea front – the only one in Italy built in such a way. You can enjoy some of the best sunsets from here too.
Is there a particular museum or a gallery you like to visit?
If the weather is nice, I have a walk in Miramare, and see the castle and its gardens. It’s so charming.
Where would you recommend for an early evening aperitivo?
The Pier for a casual sunset aperitif. For something fancier, Harry’s Piccolo Bistro. Ask them for an espresso martini as Felix Jermann takes it – they will know. Or any bar that you see people outside is a safe bet in Trieste for an aperitif.
And for dinner?
For something classic and authentic, Chimera di Bacco; or Orfanelli for a more rustic and traditional experience.
For a traveler with a passion for wine, which would you say are the most interesting wineries, apart from Jermann, in Friuli Venezia Giulia?
In Trieste, you have to visit Zidarich and Kante, two distinct expressions of the Carso Terroir. Over the Collio and Brda hills, I would check out Toros or Russiz Superiore on the Italian side of Collio. Then on the Slovenian side, you should definitely visit Movia, Edi Simčič and Marjan Simčič.
Do you have a favorite place to eat in Friuli Venezia Giulia?
My favorite would be at my grandmother’s restaurant, the Trattoria alla Luna, for authentic, traditional yet contemporary Mitteleuropean cuisine. For something more fancy, which serves traditional Friulian cuisine, La Subida’s Ristorante al Cacciatore.